Chimney Flashing Repair Expert: Tidel Remodeling’s Cricket Installation

Roofs don’t leak where you expect. They fail at intersections and breaks in the plane — valleys, skylights, and especially chimneys. If you’ve ever set a trash can in the attic during a storm and followed the drip path, odds are it traced back to flashing at the masonry. That thin line where brick meets shingle carries a heavier workload than most homeowners realize. Done right, it disappears into the roofline and quietly sheds water for decades. Done wrong, it rots sheathing, stains ceilings, and undermines the very framing you rely on.

I’ve rebuilt enough soggy corners to spot the pattern from the driveway. A wide chimney without a cricket. Counterflashing tucked into mortar that was never ground out. Sealant slathered where metal should be. Each shortcut buys a season or two, then the water finds a seam. That’s why Tidel Remodeling treats chimney flashing and cricket installation as non-negotiable craftwork, not a throw-in line item. If you’re looking for a chimney flashing repair expert who’ll address root cause rather than just smear mastic, keep reading. I’ll explain how we approach it, what you can expect, and when a cricket is not https://www.batchgeo.com/map/c94b44ee1440230ddeb9d90f43824238 just a good idea but a code-level requirement.

Why chimneys leak in the first place

A chimney interrupts the flow of water and wind across your roof, which concentrates runoff against the uphill side. During roofing contractor quotes a heavy rain, that uphill joint sees a stream, not a sprinkle. If hail is involved or the storm stalls, water can pool long enough to back up under shingles. Wind adds sideways pressure that lifts laps and drives water behind flashing. Snowdrifts compound the problem; melting snow recycles water against the brick for hours on a sunny day.

Flashing is the defense. Base flashing sits on the shingles. Step flashing overlaps each course up the sides. Counterflashing is let into the mortar joints and covers the step flashing. Together they create interlocking pathways that let water in at the bottom of each lap only to send it right back out on top of the shingle below. If any one of those three elements is undersized, mislapped, or sealed instead of mechanically integrated, you’re courting trouble.

Now add a large chimney — say 30 inches wide or more — on the high side of a slope. The uphill base flashing has to catch and divert a volume of water that rivals a roof valley. Without a cricket (also called a saddle), water slams into the brick, eddies, and works laterally. Over a few seasons, that constant wetting chews through mortar and paint, and it finds pinholes in the metal. We’ve seen plywood sheathing blackened and spongy a foot back from the chimney because the uphill flashing was a flat pan instead of a true diverter.

What a cricket does, and when you need one

A cricket is a small, ridge-like structure framed and covered behind the chimney. Its only job is to split the river. Instead of water piling up against the brick, the cricket divides flow and sends it to each side where step flashing can handle it. The top of the cricket should land below the top of the chimney so water never disperses back onto the rear face. Its slope needs to be steep enough to shed debris and snow, which we size according to your main roof pitch and local weather.

In many jurisdictions, a cricket is required when a chimney is wider than 30 inches perpendicular to the slope. Even where it’s not in the book, I treat 24 to 28 inches as the decision zone. On gentle top rated roofing contractor reviews pitches or where the prevailing wind drives rain, I lean toward adding a cricket even if the chimney is smaller. Hail-prone areas benefit too; those pea-sized ice pellets love to dam up behind a flat pan. If you’ve searched “storm damage roof repair near me” after a spring squall, you’ve seen how quickly roof components get overwhelmed when water has nowhere to go.

Signs your chimney flashing is failing

You don’t need to be on the roof to catch early warnings. Look for water stains on the ceiling near the chimney chase or hairline cracks in drywall that look dirty rather than clean. In the attic, inspect the backside of the chimney after a storm. Damp sheathing, darkened wood, or mineral tracks are early clues. Outside, flaking paint on the chimney, efflorescence on brick, rust lines on flashing, or lifted shingles at the flashing edge tell a story. If you’re dealing with an emergency roof leak patch, place the bucket and call for a fast roof leak fix, but plan for a proper evaluation when the weather calms. Temporary repairs buy time, not permanence.

Why we don’t rely on sealant

I carry sealant in the truck like a first aid kit. It stops bleeding, but it’s not surgery. The physics of a roof depend on gravity and overlaps, not glue. UV breaks down even high-grade products. Brick and wood move differently as temperatures swing, and those joints flex. A bead that looked perfect in October opens by February. A professional flashing repair service treats sealant as a secondary defense at best — over a compression joint or a weep path — never as the primary barrier.

Our field-tested approach to chimney flashing and cricket installation

Every job starts with a diagnostic. We’re a trusted roof patch company when speed is critical, but for anything beyond a quick tarp or a shingle stitch, we slow down and map the water. On a chimney, that means assessing the chimney cap and crown, mortar condition, size and placement relative to the slope, and the roof covering. Asphalt, wood shake, metal, and tile all require different details, and we’re licensed to handle them. If you need a licensed tile roof repair contractor for clay or concrete systems, we’re familiar with the larger step flashing dimensions and the need to integrate pan tiles without breaking their water channels.

Once we confirm the scope, we strip back the roof covering far enough to access sound wood. That usually means three to five courses of shingles on the sides and more on the uphill side, plus any roofing on a prior cricket if we’re replacing a failed one. We repair sheathing if rot has crept in — minor roof damage restoration now prevents sag and nail pull-through later. Then we rebuild with layers that lap in the right direction, never against flow.

Underlayments matter. We run a self-adhered ice and water membrane up the sides of the chimney and at the uphill side to create a sealed bed behind the flashing. That membrane needs clean, dry wood to bond; rushing this step leads to bubbles and poor adhesion. We also leave a small gap — typically a quarter inch — between metal flashing and masonry for thermal movement, then bridge with counterflashing set into reglets we cut in the mortar. We don’t grind into brick faces unless the mortar has failed.

The cricket gets framed with pressure-treated or exterior-rated lumber. Pitch depends on region and roof slope, but a 1:12 to 2:12 cricket on a 6:12 roof is common. Steeper sheds debris better but can look bulky on a low-profile roof, so we balance function and aesthetics. We sheath and cover the cricket with the same roofing system as the main field for asphalt or metal; on tile roofs we often use metal on the cricket body beneath custom-trimmed tiles for appearance and durability.

Metal selection is a judgment call, not a catalog checkbox. Galvanized steel is standard and affordable. In coastal or high-salt environments, we use aluminum or stainless. Copper lasts generations and pairs beautifully with brick, though it costs more. On hail-damaged roof repair projects, thicker gauges resist dimpling and pinholes. Wherever dissimilar metals meet, we isolate them to prevent galvanic corrosion.

Step flashing gets woven with each shingle course, minimum 2 inches of exposure on the roof plane and 4 to 5 inches up the vertical leg depending on code and shingle profile. On the uphill side, we install a pan flashing that extends beyond the chimney width and into the cricket valleys, with soldered or riveted and sealed corners if the metal warrants it. Counterflashing comes last. We cut a clean horizontal kerf in mortar joints, insert the hemmed edge of the counterflashing, and pin or wedge it before sealing the reglet with a compatible, UV-stable sealant designed for masonry. Then we point the joint smooth so water can’t sit.

We finish by checking the roof valley lines flanking the chimney. Water accelerates as it meets the cricket’s hips and flows into those short valleys. If those shingles are brittle or the valley metal is undersized, we extend the repair to include proper valley treatment. A roof valley repair specialist knows those tan lines of exposed metal and shingle notches can become the next leak if they’re ignored.

Real-world examples from the crew

A colonial we serviced last fall had a two-foot-wide brick chimney dead center on the rear slope. The previous installer laid a broad galvanized pan behind it but skipped the cricket. After a summer hailstorm and two gully washers, the homeowner saw a faint watermark creep across the bedroom ceiling. Our experienced roof repair crew found the pan was flat against the deck and holding pine needles like a strainer. The fix was clear. We removed three squares of roofing, reframed a 2:12 cricket, upgraded to a heavier-gauge galvanized pan with soldered corners, and tied step flashing into four courses. We cut and reset counterflashing two joints high. Eight months later, after three storms and two freeze-thaw cycles, the attic wood is dry and the stain hasn’t grown a millimeter.

Another case involved a stucco-clad chimney on a tile roof. The homeowner had called for an emergency roof leak patch during a winter rain. We tarped and stopped the drip, then scheduled a proper inspection. The flashing had been surface-sealed with elastomeric coating that cracked across the seasons. Because tile systems are more complex, a licensed tile roof repair contractor handled the rebuild. We removed a perimeter of tiles, fabricated large-format step flashings, added a cricket covered in metal underlayment, and integrated the counterflashing into cut stucco joints with backer rod and sealant compatible with cementitious materials. Tile went back with new clips, and we replaced broken pans we found during the process. The water path now reads like a textbook diagram.

Where quick fixes make sense — and where they don’t

Sometimes the right answer is speed. When a storm rips off a shingle and rain is pounding, a same-day roof repair service that secures a sheet of underlayment and a temporary cap stops interior damage. For a fast roof leak fix on a tiny corner of lifted flashing, we’ll press an aluminum patch with butyl backing to bridge a gap and keep you dry that night. Those are triage moves while you line up a full repair.

But if your chimney has stained brick, sagging caulk lines, or an uphill pan that looks like a cookie sheet, stop spending on band-aids. The money you put toward recurring callouts adds up. A cricket and proper flashing system cost more upfront, yes, but they stop the cycle. Homeowners often tell me they wish someone had explained the difference between patching and redesigning the water path years earlier. Clear water management outlives three generations of shingles.

Material choices for different roofs

Asphalt shingles remain the most common, and they pair well with 26 to 28 gauge galvanized steel flashing on most homes. We size step flashing to match shingle exposure — typically 5 inches — and lap at least 2 inches. For affordable asphalt roof repair that includes flashing work, we re-use salvageable shingles from lower, less visible areas to get color continuity around the chimney, then install new shingles where the eye won’t notice the blend.

Wood shakes demand larger step flashing with breathable spacing. We avoid trapping water against the shake edges and leave pathways for the system to dry. Copper looks handsome against cedar and holds up to tannins in the wood.

Metal roofs challenge lazy details. Standing seam systems require either a welded curb or purpose-built chimney saddles with high seams and closure strips. We bring specialized tools and, if needed, coordinate with the original panel manufacturer. Skipping this expertise is how you end up scrolling for a professional flashing repair service at midnight.

Tile roofs need wide, tall flashing legs and careful tile cutting. It’s easy to introduce weak points by notching a pan tile incorrectly. Our crew templates each cut and files edges so they don’t carry point loads that lead to cracks later.

Integrating insurance and storm response

Hail and wind don’t respect schedules. When a cell drops ice the size of marbles, your roof takes a beating. Granules go first, then laps separate, then flashing shows dents and holes along bends. A hail-damaged roof repair often includes more than shingle replacement. Flashing that looks intact may hide pinholes where hail struck the bend line repeatedly. We inspect all chimney flashing bends under light and by running a cotton pad along edges to catch snags you can’t see. If your policy covers wind and hail, we document damage methodically with date-stamped photos and slope-by-slope notes.

For homeowners who type “storm damage roof repair near me” after the clouds pass, here’s the playbook we follow. We secure the site, tarp if needed, and prevent interior loss. We photograph and measure. We meet the adjuster on the roof when possible and point out functional damage, not just cosmetic bruising. Then we design a repair or replacement scope that restores the roof to pre-loss condition or better, including chimney work that insurers sometimes overlook. If a cricket was missing and lack of a cricket contributed to loss, some carriers will pay to add one. It depends on the policy and local code upgrades clause.

Don’t forget the masonry and crown

A perfect flashing job can still leak if the chimney crown or cap is cracked. Water enters from above, runs down inside the chimney chase, and shows up as “flashing leaks” that aren’t. We inspect the crown and cap on every visit. A crown with spider cracks gets sealed with a breathable, elastomeric crown coat rated for UV and freeze-thaw. A missing or rusted cap gets replaced with stainless or copper sized to the flue. On brick chimneys, we check mortar joints and repoint where necessary. Counterflashing wants a sound substrate. Trying to set a tight reglet into crumbly mortar just invites another call later.

When patching is enough

Not every chimney needs a rebuild. If you have a tight flashing system with a single rust spot at a corner, we can excise a small section and stitch in new metal without pulling half the roof. If step flashing tabs are solid but the counterflashing has lifted, we can re-cut and reset just that layer. Affordable shingle repair service often pairs with targeted flashing work, bringing costs down while preserving integrity. The trick is honest assessment. We’ll tell you when a local roof patching expert can give you a year or two with a modest outlay, and we’ll tell you when that’s throwing good money after bad.

How to prep your home for the workday

Roof work is noisy and dusty. Take down photos or mirrors on walls that back to the chimney chase; hammering can rattle them. Move cars out of the driveway so we can position ladders and material. If you have a delicate garden near the work zone, we’ll set up tarps and plywood paths, but pointing out your prized rosebush helps. Pets do better in a quiet room or with a neighbor while nail guns are popping. Most chimney flashing and cricket installations take one to two days depending on roof type and the amount of sheathing repair. Same-day roof repair service applies to emergencies and small patches; a full cricket takes longer because it should.

The difference a seasoned crew makes

Manufacturers publish details, and they’re a good baseline. Experience fills the gaps between drawings and reality. On older homes, nothing is square. Chimneys belly out by half an inch on one side. Mortar joints wander. We scribe counterflashing to match those quirks so water doesn’t find a shortcut. We carry metal brakes to the site for custom bends. We double-check where the cricket’s hips aim so they feed valleys cleanly rather than creating turbulent pockets. These micro-decisions don’t show up on a proposal, but they’re why our repairs stay dry through sideways rain.

If you’re vetting an experienced roof repair crew, ask how they transition cricket valleys into side step flashing, what gauge metal they recommend for your environment, and how deep they cut reglets. Ask if they use ice and water shield under the uphill pan and whether they isolate dissimilar metals. An answer that leans on “we’ll seal it up” rather than describing overlaps tells you all you need to know.

Cost, timelines, and value

Numbers vary by market, roof type, and access. A straightforward asphalt chimney reflash without a cricket might land in the low four figures when wood is sound and access is easy. Add a framed cricket and the figure rises with labor and materials. Tile and metal push costs higher due to specialized flashing and slower installation. If sheathing or rafters are rotten, budget for carpentry. We price transparently: materials, labor, any decking replacement allowance, and optional upgrades like copper.

While I respect budgets, I’ve also seen the math on deferred flashing work. A winter of slow leakage can mean replacing drywall, insulation, and painted finishes, plus treating mold. That cost often exceeds the price difference between patching and doing it right. If affordability is your priority, we can phase work — secure a watertight system now with galvanized steel and plan for copper down the road, or pair an affordable asphalt roof repair in a broader project to maximize crew efficiency.

When valleys and chimneys intersect

Sometimes the chimney sits near or within a roof valley. That’s a special case. Water volume and speed are higher, and even a well-built cricket can struggle if it dumps into a narrow valley. We widen the valley flashing, stiffen it with ribs if the span is long, and use longer step flashing legs on the chimney side. The geometry wants careful layout so you don’t create little backwaters where snow and leaves linger. A roof valley repair specialist will mock this up with chalk lines before cutting any metal to be sure the flows make sense.

A short homeowner checklist for peace of mind

• Confirm your contractor will install step flashing, base flashing, and counterflashing — not just caulk.
• Ask whether a cricket is required or recommended for your chimney size.
• Verify underlayment type behind the flashing, especially on the uphill side.
• Discuss metal choice for your climate and roof system.
• Request photos before, during, and after — your attic and your roof.

Why Tidel Remodeling treats chimney work as a craft

We’re not a volume roofer that chases storms and leaves town. Our name is on each roof. That means we prioritize details you won’t notice on day one but will appreciate five winters from now. Homeowners call us for a fast roof leak fix and stay with us because the fixes hold. Whether we’re a local roof patching expert handling a quick shingle swap, or the crew you trust for a full chimney reflash with a new cricket, the mindset doesn’t change: build the water path, respect the materials, and leave things better than we found them.

If you’re staring at a water ring on the ceiling, or you’ve put off that nagging leak long enough, consider this your nudge. A proper chimney flashing repair expert will solve the problem at its source. If we can help — from affordable shingle repair service to comprehensive chimney and valley rebuilds — we’re ready to show up, evaluate honestly, and do the work right.