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Discussion in ' Carpenters' Talk ' started by Jackadoo , Oct 13, Log in or Sign up. Screwfix Community Forum. Hello people I'm looking to build a shed 5m deep x 4 metres wide with a deep ridge height of around 2.

It will be timber-framed with 4"x4"x9'supporting posts concreted to a depth of mm and the tops cut off to suit into a hard surface. All other timber will be 4"x2" for use as noggins and trusses. Eaves height will be mm Sorry to jump between imperial and metric but I'm sure you know what I mean All timber will be treated, rough sawn.

I've never designed a truss before and would like to get it right. I'm figuring the pitch angle will be low from scale drawings I've done and a king post should suffice. It can be very windy where I live.

I looked at flat-packed tin sheds from other places but they would fly away at anything more than a stiff fart. I haven't decided on which type of cladding I'll use.

Depending on cost and level of security it'll be box-section corrugated steel or ship-lapped timber. The steel would be better but how would I insulate it? Any help will be much appreciated! Jackadoo , Oct 13, I've almost finished building my "shed". It is 8mtr x 6mtr. Both very useful and helped me a lot. Good luck. Barn Builder , Oct 13, Many thanks Barn Builder I'll look up the books you mentioned. The other problem that I have I've checked all the Regulations and spoken to a contact in my local planning department and we have a site meeting next week.

Shed builders beware. Jackadoo, you may not need planning permission. You have what are termed "permitted rights", I think these allow you to put up a porch bid a shed or so on with a volume upto 55m3. Some rules apply as to positioning and property borders. You might want to check this out before paying BC fees.

The Ex-Kitchen Fitter , Oct 14, Could be worth costing factory made trusses. Fabulous Freda , Oct 14, You might want to check this out before paying BC fees I believe "permitted rights" are up to 15m2 floor area,3m height if flat roof 4m if pitched ,and at least 1m away from boundary unless built of mainly non-flammable materials e.

PowerTool , Oct 14, Jackadoo, I did need planning permission. I think the reason for this is because I was in an area of outstanding natural beauty AOB. Also it is built at the bottom of the garden which is at least 6 feet lower than the top of the garden.

I was also able to get permission to go to 4. Gives a bit more storage space in the roof. It's always best to give the planners a ring in case there is a problem though. Try to read up a bit before you get them over or speak to them so they can't hit you with nonsense. Barn Builder , Oct 14, Thank you all the replies so far I'll only need 4 trusses and I'm up for making them myself.

As for the planning rules, I live in Scotland where the system is a little different. Added to this I live adjacent to a main trunk road. My proposed shed location is within 20 metres of this road but below the road level of the highway. Theres a steep embankment just outside the boudary This is why permission may be required.

The house is set in a hollow with what used to be a B Class road now serving as my drive with no other properties along it. The B class road was relocated some 20 years ago with a new T-junction connecting to the trunk road. Although I have a large area around the house there is not much choice in where to build the shed. It's a pain but I wouldn't want to have to demolish anything I build.

Jackadoo , Oct 14, It wont be hard to make up principals yourself I used 4 by 2 which were straped at the top with 1 inch board and the strechers at the bottom were 6 by 1 on both sides bolted through with coach bolts. I had originaly put just one "king" post in 3 by 2 but later added two more timbers going from the center of the truss to the middle of the roof sides as I noticed a slight belly in the center of the slopes of the roof so I ended up with 4 triangles on each truss instead of just two.

My shed is 30 foot by 15 foot. Mof , Oct 14, Thanks Mof I was thinking of using 4"x4" posts as it can be very windy where I live.

Plus I'll be concreting them into the ground. It may be overkill but the price difference isn't much and I'll be digging the holes anyway. I'll take onboard your point about the trusses and fit the extra timbers. I take it you clad your shed with timber and don't suffer from condensation?

I haven't made my mind up between timber or box section corrugated steel cladding. Jackadoo , Oct 15, You may want to use something like this instead of concreting the posts into the base. Measure2cut1 , Oct 15, I insulated the inside with fiberglass and lined the interior with pegboard, to deaden the sound of my machines.

Mof , Oct 15, Once again Thank You Mof! Your choice of cladding gives me something else to think about. Thanks for the link. About 16 years ago my father and I built a new fence around his back garden using treated 4x4 posts. There were 25 of them at 8' centres and before we set them in concrete to a depth of 2' it's even windier where my parents live we coated the bottom 30" in bitumen. After that we wrapped flashing tape around them at ground level before pouring in the concrete we'd had fences blow over previously due to rot.

Needless to say the fence hasn't budged an inch and there's no sign of rot despite my mother's best attempts at piling soil against it. The fence is clad in ship-lap sarking so is like a big sail. It's painted every two or three years.

I'm sure my Dad must've been involved with the building of the Forth Rail Bridge in a previous life The same method will be used for posts. Jackadoo , Oct 16, You must log in or sign up to reply here. Show Ignored Content. Share This 4 X 3 Metre Garden Shed Map Page Tweet. Your name or email address: Do you already have an account?

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