5 cut method - ��������� ����������� - ���������� May 21, �� Hello All. Not sure if anyone here has seen the nice video by Bill Ng on using the 5 cut method. It currently has over two million views. He posted a follow up video called "two cuts to a perfect sled" or similar, where he seemed disheartened by some negative comments. Apr 02, �� The 5 cut method to check the accuracy of a crosscut sled. Formula for 5 cut method table saw Download free PDF plans with dimensions and 3D model Publisher - Free woodworking plans and video tutorials. Jan 18, �� Top of 5th cut, A = �. Bottom of 5th cut, B = �. Length of off-cut = �. Distance from pivot point to point of adjustment = 44�. ( � ) / 4 / ?44� = �. Seems good enough to me.

Thank you so much. Great videos. Thanks so much for taking the time to pass on such great knowledge. I am totally new to woodworking and just built my 1st box, albeit using pocket hole screws i bet this is swearing to you guys. I am trying to build the sled using your method. However i seem to keep getting stuck. Is the final number you are after after you use the formula above or is it just between the measurement of A and B? This is with the formula. Hope this help.

Hi William. Thank you so much for replying. Turns out I am way off at. Think I must have some play in the rails. Will start all over again as I cannot put any more screws on the left hand side of the fence. Again thanks for the video and reply. So I built another sled today. I have after my 3rd adjustment, a difference of. Hi for some reason I cannot sign up to the website. When ever I try to type in a password the register button disappears.

I am now trying to register to your website with a PC and I still am not able to register. When I go to click on Register it disappears? Sir, Very nicely done! Starting to assemble a sled for an Oliver Your thoughts on that? Also thinking about a second wider sled as I have an extension on the right and occasionally cut longer pieces of salvaged dimensional cypress and southern yellow pin.

Hi Bill, If you can glue the formica on both sides of the runners and get a perfect fit that would be plus. Better wear and tear and and a slick surface. Unfortunately I am still having difficulty registering to your website. I really want to get this sorted so I can start doing some online courses. This is what happens: I type my email address in and as soon as I start typing a password the register word word disappears.

Now this happens on an Android tablet, smartphone and Pc running Windows It should work on your pc. Online classes will be uploaded soon. Thanks for your patience. My reasoning is as follows. When you start, all four angles of the board are undefined. After the first cut, one of the angles is defined by your fence angle, call it X. The other 3 angles are still undefined.

After the second cut, two angles are defined both X. So when you make the 4th cut you are converting the � 3X corner to X, with the offcut angle making up the difference. In fact, every cut after the 3rd cut i. If my logic is sound, then just save the offcuts from the 4th, 5th, and 6th cuts and they should all measure the same angle.

But if I am right, there is no need for a 5th cut. Just stop at the 4th cut. Or if you want to keep cutting, save all the offcuts starting with the 4th offcut and average the angles to get your error.

Hi William, thanks for the video! I love anything that can make my woodworking more precise and reliable. One question though, where did you get the offset numbers? Hi, William. Thanks for sharing your techniques with us! One question, how did you figure the offset numbers? Any insight? Hi Ryan, The offset is so that you can use the fence to continue with length.

The number is not that important. Thanks, William. Can you offset too much? What if I used an offset of 3 inches? What would be the downside to that? Thank you for the wonderful instruction.

I refer to it with each sled I make. Question: does the match change if I am making only a half sled? If so then how? Well I finally got around to building the cross cut sled. After the the 5th cut I have.

Slightly low but I think well within tolerance. Am I right? I am just having a challenge installing the runners on my sled. When I install them as you have suggested using a shim underneath the runners to make them proud of the table, after installation of the runners, the sled is binding on the table and is almost impossible to push through.

The runners are cut perfect and run in the miter slots individually just fine. I am not sure what the problem is or what I am doing incorrectly. Hi Andy, A couple of things comes to mind. First pre-drill the holes for the screw and make sure the screws are not too big where it spreads the runners. That might make it tight. If the shim for the runners are too thick and make the runners too proud off the top, when you put pressure in the middle or between the two runners, it puts a curve in it and when you release the pressure it springs open causing it to spread wide and makes it tight.

Try that and see if it helps. Hi William, Thank you for your response. I did pre-drill and I am using the screws you recommended in the video. I may have pushed down in the middle. Not sure. I will do what you suggested and see if it corrects the problem. Hi William, Sorry it took so long to get back with you. I wanted to share what I discovered which should help others. The issue that I found is the runners had split ever so slightly when I screwed them down.

This was caused by using a non tapered drill bit when drilling the pilot holes. I installed new runners using a tapered drill bit and not it all works. Thank you again for your help.

Well, completed sled construction today and went through seven successive attempts to get a perfect 90 degree cut. Best I could get was 0. Some things I have learned is that wood screws do not do well when screwing edgewise into plywood. What I used had only five plies, and it seems to make a difference when putting the screws in when calibrating the fence.

My sled has some ten or so holes in the side opposite the pivot, so I decided to stop with the above error still there. The last adjustment I did simply by clamping down the pointed block and hitting the fence toward it going up with a rubber mallet.

Doing so actually changed the alinement of the rear fence by about 0. Clearly, I have reached the limits of repeatable measurements with the plywood I used. Very frustrated right now. Time for a cool one. Oh, after the brute force method using the mallet, I clamped the rear fence down and put in three more screws to make sure it stayed where I had it. This worked. While I am commenting, I am thinking that perhaps a metal bar embedded in the rear fence sticking out horizontally an inch with a tapped, threaded hole in it, combined with a small angle bracket that is attached to the sled base with a non-threaded hole in it.

With this you could use a machine screw adjustor that would pivot the rear fence about the pivot screw like it was a micrometer dial, allowing minute adjustments in the angle of the rear fence that can be locked by installing more screws once an exact position is achieved with the adjustment mechanism and then the rear fence clamped firmly before screws are put in through the base into the rear fence bottom.

This, I think, is what I pursue with what I have already built. Well, today I did my micro-adjustor to replace the difficult to execute screw moving technique to come to a final acceptable position of the rear fence. I installed a standard 90 degree steel angle bracket in a rabbeted trench under the bottom of the sled base at the front edge front being in front of the blade and drilled out the top hole so that a bolt could be passed through it.

This worked! Turing the bolt after loosening the locking nuts produces a very small movement in the fence about the pivot. Warning: Care must be taken to make sure that the vertical hole into which the barrel lock cylinder is inserted is a very close fit. If it is not, then your mechanism will have backlash in it and will be useless. I found that this phenomenon occurs even when you clamp the fence before putting an anchoring screw in the pivoting side of the fence.

This is difficult to describe without being able to illustrate, but I make the comment to let any that wish to know that it can be done. I would like to know if any of you can give me a source for reasonably priced good steel screws.

The ones now sold at Lowes and Home Depot are, I do believe, made of case hardened peanut butter! They strip out when using an impact tool, and, of course, you can solve it by not using the impact tool, but I do want to use the tool because of the speed and convenience of doing so.

If anyone knows, I would appreciate the info. I have a bucket full of stripped out headed Philips head screws with round pits in their tops. William, thanks for the videos. Very helpful and was able to turn out a sled with. Now that I have it, I see some enhancements I want to make including a smaller scale sled and adding hold downs.

Look forward to creating the box joint jig this weekend. My wife and daughter have a curio shelf they want me to make that would look good with box joint ends. Hello Mr. Ng, Thanks for your crosscut sled YouTube video! Do you offer a video on the Gand held jig you used to push small stock through? May I ask where your school is?

Thank you so much for your excellent and nicely detailed videos. When I need technical explanations of woodworking techniques, I seek out your videos first. I live in the US. As much as I love the metric system with its simplicity, my tools are not made for this. This brings me to the difficulty I had calibrating my crosscut sled using your system.

Once the initial squaring of the front fence to the blade is complete, and measurements were taken of the 5th cutoff piece. It took several attempts to realize I was not determining correctly whether the error difference in the cutoff piece was a negative or a positive number. In MY mind, I assumed any number with zeros to the right of the decimal point would be considered a negative number.

I understand now how simple a concept this is. And that if the number you are subtracting from is larger, the result will be a negative number, and vise versa. I say all this suggesting you perhaps add this simple clerification to future videos that this may apply to. You know, for the fellow clueless like me! Thank you sir for your huge contributions to the woodworking community. My first measurement after the initial 5 cut was. I decided to not adjust further � not least of which because I had cut all the way through on one of the test cuts and so had no choice It is hard not to do that as there is little margin for completing the cut without going all the way through.

I would think. For the dust shield, I used Lexan polycarbonate. The local plastic shop Superior Plastic Fab. No worries now about a piece of maple flying at me. I had trouble keeping the panels flush along their entire length and with all those clamps. Anyway, still works and looks great. So I figured I would come straight to the source. In your writings, and in the video, and in just about every explanation I seem to be able to find, you state that if you can get your sled dialed in to.

My question is, where exactly are you deriving that. In other words, are you looking for only a. Or are you finding that error variance after the compounded error is divided by the 4 angles?

Or is it after it is then divided by the length of the 5th cut? By the length of the fence? I hope this question makes sense, and would greatly appreciate your insight on this clarification. I recently re-entered the world of woodworking and am so happy to have discovered your website.

Thank you for your wonderfully straight-forward videos. It is a pleasure to watch you work. I want to thank you, the generosity you show sharing your knowledge is above and beyond.

Thats what we do when we are passionate about a skill, art, talent, call it what you will. The glue application using the bayer was amazing, fast, clean and an even coat of glue with very little effort. Will never use another plastic or metal spatula type of glue applicator again.

On to sharing my experience building the sled. My first error learning experience was getting the vertical grain on the runners, for what ever reason my first set of runners I cut with the grain horizontally, I should have turned right instead of left!

Upon my forth attempt of the fifth cut, measurement A 0. I did give out a wahoo in your honor. Depending on the length of your cut, I would leave it alone. William, I love your stuff and would love to attend a class one day. I just upgraded my table saw, again, and always go back to your video on the 5 cut method. I do this each time for a refresher.

It is to the point it takes me 2 tries now. The first time I set the fence with a square, perform the 5 cuts, adjust the fence and am good to go.

I am getting very proficient at doing this and got it to. Again thank you for taking the time to make these videos and share your knowledge, good day sir, and be safe! I am having an issue that hopefully someone can help me with. I can get the fence really dialed in with this method. But as soon as I put in additional screws to secure the fence permanently, the setup is no longer square.

Using this method along with accurate measuring tools you can make cuts accurate to 0. First, ensure that the fence on your sled can be adjusted. Basically, you should be able to remove Pre Cut Woodworking Kits For Adults the fence from the sled. You'll need to leave a screw in one end of your fence, allowing the other end to pivot for adjustments.

You'll need a board to make your five cuts. The board should be close to the maximum size that will fit your sled. The larger the board, the more accurate we can make the sled. The board should be good quality MDF or plywood. We'll need to have nice, smooth edges for our measurements, so your table saw blade should be sharp and clean. The board does not need to be square. It can be rectangular or any shape with 4 sides. However, I recommend using a board that's close to square so it's easy to cut and handle.

The sides of the board should be flat. If a side is bowed out, it could rock when held againt the fence leading Viking Woodworking Projects Kr to inaccurate results. Start by marking one side of the board with a number 1, so you know what side you've started with. Starting with the longest side will yield more accurate results. Make your first cut on the side you marked. You must cut the entire length of the side. Before you make the fifth cut, keep in mind that we'll need to measure the width of the next scrap piece that we cut, so make it a comfortable width for your calipers.

Usually about 1" is fine. We'll also need to mark the forward and rear ends of the scrap piece. So mark the far end the end farthest from you with a "F" and the near end with a "N". Make the fifth cut. Now it's time to measure the scrap piece we just cut. Measure it's width at the far end marked with a "F" then measure the near end marked with a "N".

Also measure the length of the scrap piece. The last measurement we need is the distance from the screw that the fence will pivot on to the other end of the fence where the adjust will be made represented by the red line shown in the image below.

Put the measurements into my calculator below. If you haven't measured the fence pivot length yet, just skip it for now, we'll be measuring it soon. Use the same units for all measurements. Don't mix inches and feet. The calculator will tell you the amount of error in the position of the fence. If the number is positive, then you'll need to pivot the fence toward you away from the blade.

If the error is a negative number, then you'll need to pivot the fence away from you closer to the blade. To make the fence pivot adjustment, get a board I'll call it the "adjustment board" with a good corner and follow these steps:.

Clamp the adjustment board to the sled orientated so that it's corner is gently touching the fence. The adjustment board needs to be on the end of the fence away from the pivot screw. Next, unscrew all the screws holding the fence to the sled - except one pivot screw at one end of the fence. Select your feeler gauge equal to the the amount of calculated error, place it between the fence and the corner of the adjustment board.

Pushing the feeler gauge in between the fence and adjustment board should pivot the fence toward you. Clamp the fence to the sled. The feeler gauge should slide between the fence and the adjustment board with just a little bit of friction, if not, adjust the fence and re-clamp it. Remove the feeler gauge and secure the fence in place.




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