Pro Tip: Use an End Cut preservative to seal all cuts before assembling the frame. I laid out the garden cloth and covered it with a thin layer of gravel.

Use 4 Simpson SD screws in each Building A Garden Lean To Shed 01 not roofing nails! Once the frame is together, I checked for square and level, and made sure there was space for airflow between the joists and gravel. For the floor of the shed, I followed the advice I wrote in the article about shed floor plywood thickness. The single sheet needed for the floor was simple to place and made squaring the frame easy. The nails or screws should be spaced inches apart on the joists and beams.

Be careful not to hit the nails attaching the joists to the beams. Pro Tip: To learn more about what type of fasteners to use for shed building read my post here.

With the floor built it was time to plan, layout, and build the walls. I decided to use the floor deck as a level space to assemble all the wall sections; much easier than on uneven ground. As part of the planning, I lay out the walls on paper so I can also do up a materials list. I was struggling with the 8-foot front wall layout and trying to limit waste and cost.

I could live with that! If I moved the door opening to be off center, with the door closer to one end, and if it was trimmed it could even be narrower, increasing storage potential inside.

Using 16o. The back wall was straightforward framing. Cut the studs and place them between the bottom and top plates. Fasten the outside studs to form the frame, and then fasten all studs. Square the wall and screw a 2x4x10 diagonally to keep the wall frame square and rigid.

I then leaned it out of the way against the existing shed. The two side walls were also straightforward framing. I just repeated the same steps as used to construct for back wall frame. Place them out of the way. Having planned the front wall layout, I placed the top and bottom plates together.

Marked where the king studs for the door would go, remembering not to mark for studs between them. Assemble the wall frame the same as the other three walls. I added an extra stud beside each king stud.

The header for the door goes between the two king studs, and then the trimmer studs get nailed into place. With everything nailed together, move the wall out of the way.

With the walls all framed, it was time to put them all together. The back wall would be impossible to finish once it was in place, so I had to sheath and waterproof it before raising it into place. LI laid the back wall on the floor platform. I also used the OSB to help square the wall before nailing it on. I unrolled the 1 st or bottom row and stapled it to the OSB.

I unrolled the 2 nd or middle row of tar paper and overlapped the lower layer by about 6-inches. Stapled it down and rolled out the last row. I let it overlap How To Build Shed the middle row, so it was flush with the top edge of the OSB and stapled it down. Both rows should be as long as the first row too. I began assembling the walls with the sheathed and protected back wall.

With the back wall nailed and braced into position, I placed the left wall onto the floor. I used the same fasteners to connect the end studs of the two walls. Plumbed and braced the walls. I moved the right wall into place. Plumbed and braced as with the left wall. I lifted the front wall into position; aligned it with the floor edge and side walls.

I cut the top plates for the two side walls so they overlap the front wall. Used 3-inch nails to secure the top plates into place. The overlap ties the side wall more securely to the front wall. I live in a snowy climate, and the lean-to roof slope gave me some concerns.

That means for every inches or foot the roof runs; it goes up 5-inches. The steeper the slope, the faster it sheds snow, ice, and leaves, so less build-up. Any greater and even my wife would have to duck going in! The roof is narrow enough, and close enough to the ground, that if snow build-up got too great, I could use a snow rake to remove it. I checked the options for finishing the roof.

The house and original shed had asphalt shingles, and I planned to use matching shingles if I could. The nail head should sit flat and flush with the shingle when driven in. Step-by-Step process I used the practices laid out in my article about shed roof framing to calculate the length of the rafters and to layout and cut the angles of the birdsmouth.

Once a pattern rafter was cut, it was used to mark all the remaining common rafters. For short rafters, it may be easier to set one in place and use a square to mark the cuts, and then use it as a pattern after making all the cuts.

To select the lumber for the rafters I use a Rafter Span Table to determine the spacing and dimension lumber for your rafters.

The dimension lumber needed for the rafter is determined by the span or unsupported distance the rafter must run. The length of the rafter from the front edge of the back wall double plate to the front edge of the double plate of the front wall I calculated using the total rise and the total run it traverses.

A bit of middle school math called the Pythagorean Theorem and a calculator, or use a construction calculator, or a free one online rafter calculator, to help determine the length. This also identifies where the notch or back of the birdsmouth begins. This is rafter length before adding the extra distance for the eave overhang. To calculate the plumb angle for the rafter ends and the birdsmouth I use a framing square.

I layout the cut for the ridge end of the rafter first, and then mark where the birdsmouth begins. That is the plumb line for the rafter cut. The location of the back of the birdsmouth that hooks over the top plate of the outer wall is where the mark for the length of the rafter is. I draw a plumb line on the rafter at that mark similar to the ridge end of the rafter.

However, the rule of thumb is that the cut should not be deeper than a third of the thickness of the rafter. I use the building square on the underside of the rafter with the short arm down.

I move the inside of the short arm up the plumb line from the rafter bottom to the desired depth — checking the square is aligned on the plumb line. I mark a line along the rafter where the underside of the long arm of the square sits. The two lines form the cut out for the birdsmouth.

I determine the length of the overhang or eves, and align the square to similar to cutting the ridge end of the rafter and mark the cut for the tail of the rafter.

The two end clips for the side rafters have one wing cut off — make sure to cut off the left from one clip and the right from another clip. I installed the rafter clips at inch centers, above each of the studs. Instead, I used Hurricane Ties to secure them and to prevent any wind lift, also less chance of splitting the rafter. For sheathing a roof either plywood or OSB are fine. The building code sets minimum thicknesses based on snow load and rafter spacing.

I never throw out wood that could be used someday! I tacked the fascia into place and used clamps to hold the bottom sheet of sheathing in place after aligning it. I measure the next piece, cut and slid it into place. Because the lean too was tight to the existing shed and its roof overhang, I secured the upper piece first. The lower piece was easier to slide up into the groove channel from below. Once the frame is in place, attach siding panels to the 4 walls.

After the walls are done, add rafters on top of one side of the shed and add the roof beams to form the lean-to. To finish your shed, screw plywood sheets to the roof and paint or stain them. For more tips, including how to measure the pieces for your lean to shed, read on!

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No account yet? Create an account. Edit this Article. We use cookies to make wikiHow great. By using our site, you agree to our cookie policy. Cookie Settings. Learn why people trust wikiHow. Download Article Explore this Article parts. Tips and Warnings. Things You'll Need. Related Articles. Article Summary. Part 1 of Cut the joists to the intended width of your shed. Joists are the cross-beams that will lie on the ground and hold together the outer framing of the floor.

Use 2x6 lumber for the joists. Use a circular saw to cut the joists. Take safety precautions when using a circular saw. Wear protective eyewear, always cut away from yourself, and never set the circular saw down while the blade is still spinning.

Use treated lumber for the joists since the lumber may be in direct contact with the earth. Lay out the front and back beams of the floor. Use 2x6 treated lumber for these beams as well. Lay out each of your cut floor joists between the front and back flooring beams.

Then, drive screws through the back flooring board into each joist. Attach 4 skid beams to the floor. The skid beams should be made of 4x4 treated lumber.

Each skid beam should run the full length of the shed, e. This means that each skid beam will be the same length as the front and back floor planks.

The photo shows the skid beams on top of the floor joists, but once attached they should be underneath supporting the entire weight of the shed. Cut the skids if necessary, and attach them across the joists using metal connectors. Skids sit under the floor joists and provide a stable foundation for the shed to rest on.

Skids rest directly on the earth, or on concrete foundation blocks. Either attach the skid beams as shown and then flip the entire floor over HEAVY - this is at least a two-person operation , or lift up one side of the floor framing and slide the skid beams into position before attaching. The plywood will form the flooring of the shed. Drive 1 screw into each skid beam every 1 foot 0. Part 2 of Frame each wall by nailing together 2 2x4 beams for the top and sides.

The bottom of the wall should be a single 2x4 beam. Be sure to measure each beam before cutting or nailing them together so that the walls will be properly framed. Drill a pilot hole before screwing in the screws to make them slide in a little easier. Double up 2 2x6 boards on either side of the door opening so that the gap will be reinforced.

The doubled-up studs will also give you material to screw the doorframe into. Lift up the 2 side walls and set them in place on the 2 sides of the framed floor, making sure that the edges and corners of the walls align with the edges of the floor. Drive the screws directly into the floor.

Raise the walls and set them in place in between the 2 side walls. This will attach the front, back, and side walls all securely together, and also anchor the walls firmly to the floor. Attach siding to the 4 walls. Measure the final dimensions of each wall, and cut the siding to size using a circular saw. Then attach the cut siding to the walls with 2-inch nails.

Purchase siding at a local home-supply store or hardware store. You can choose the color of the siding. Part 3 of Frame the top-side wall of the lean to roof with 2x4 lumber. Frame the top, bottom, and sides of the wall using 2x4 lumber, and attach joists between the top and bottom every Screw the add-on wall to the top of 1 side of the shed.

Cut rafters from 2x4 beams.

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