Building code - Wikipedia How to Build a Garage From the Ground Up: Need some workshop space, a fortress of solitude, or a place to house your beer fridge? A new spacious garage is the answer, and this is the Instructable to make it possible. As a new homeowner and avid DIY type guy, I was up against a big challenge. If you would like an accurate lead time on a garage in your area, shoot us an email and we will let you know right away. Benefits of Onsite Garages. Stick built on your foundation or slab, using the highest of building standards and wood garage options; Ability to meet local codes if you are planning to finish it out or add an apartment. With another free garage plan from Today's Plans, you can tweak the plan to build more than dozen different garage and workshop areas, four of which are described in detail as part of the free materials. This page PDF provides layouts, materials lists, building resources, and plans for building the main garage and expansion shed.

It also provides the space to keep your hay, farm equipment, feed items and others. If you want, you can also include a workshop in here even after parking two vehicles. You want to add this garage to your farmland that provides a large storage space. Also, this plan complies with all the required DIY standards.

This garage plan adds value to your property. It provides added space for other storage and meets all the general standards. This design, however, requires some expertise in construction. This pole-framing construction, however, reduces foundation, excavation and site work. It provides storage space and is inexpensive to build which suits your budget and also meet all the general standards.

If you have a good knowledge of post-frame building methods, then only you should try with this plan as it is not recommended for beginners. This pole-frame structure serves many purposes and a unique addition to your property. The storage loft has an outside door that makes it convenient. The loft space is square feet with a floor space of square feet. This free plan from Instructables offers a large garage to have because it provides the space to park many vehicles or can be used for other storage purposes.

You can also add a workshop to this structure. This garage has a nice look with which you are sure to be satisfied. Moreover, this plan provides you the complete process of not only building a garage from the ground up but also includes details of getting the permits and need-based hiring of subcontractors.

From this very name, you can identify that it gives you the opportunity to add a small apartment in the garage or you can use this additional space for storage purposes as well. This unique feature of this plan makes it very functional for its ability to hold other equipment and multiple vehicles. This is a typical detached garage from Western Construction that goes well with the modern house.

It can also be referred to a Storage Truss Garage, and as the name goes, this two-car garage plan provides additional space to store other equipment, tools and also you can add a small workshop. This Standard Truss Garage design provides space for parking two cars.

This garage plan designed by Western Construction is detached giving you the leverage of using it as a workshop as well. If you cannot afford any of the garages to protect your vehicles but need to make one very urgently to protect your investments, this is the garage that can help. Though it is not a traditional garage, you can build this to park your vehicle for protection or store your farm equipment. Here is a detailed video that shows how to build this kind of garage and if you already have the required materials available, this can be made for free.

Some homeowners prefer carport plans as it is very convenient to build with basic carpentry skills. The attached carport plan is an extended structural framework with the apartment where you can park your vehicle for storage.

It also gives protection and allows better ventilation. The lumber that you choose should be very durable for this plan. This plan is very cost-effective, and the shelter gives the protection to your vehicles from bad weather. This also requires very basic woodworking skills. However, attention to detailing is very important because of their many legal codes that you need to comply with. This plan is very convenient as it provides additional space to park two cars. This construction also takes very less time and can be completed in a weekend if you hire a company like the Valley Restoration and Construction team.

Pressure treated lumbers recommended for this plan as they can withstand rough weather conditions. Even if you are inexperienced but want to build a carport with a gambrel roof and have additional space for storage so that it looks great and is durable, you can accomplish this task within a weekend as it does not require much effort.

You can use the storage space to keep extra tires or some other equipment you may desire to make this plan very functional. Whatever you do, be sure to protect your vehicles and find an additional storage space. Your email address will not be published. Large Detached Garage 2. Double Garage With Porch 4. Small StandAlone Garage 5. Detached Single Car Garage 6.

Single Car Garage 7. Double Garage Plans Two Car Garage With Loft Barn Garage Berrywood Pole-Frame Garage Candlewood Mini Barn and Garage Woodberry Garage and Barn From the Ground Up Garage Use joist hanger nails for this job.

These nails are thicker and made is a different way so that they are strong in shear and will bear the loads transmitted from the roof to the framing by the metal hangers. Click here to see the kind of hangers I used to tie the trusses to the top plate. A photo of them installed is also below. As we move towards sheathing the trusses, be careful not to trust the trusses for support.

If you are falling, grabbing one will probably bring it down with you. The trusses are not really stable until the sheathing starts tying them all together and to the gables. So take care with the first few sheets and stay on the top plate until you get some nails into the sheathing. Once all the trusses are tied to the top plate and spaced properly you can start work on closing up the roof. The tails on the trusses are probably too long for the eaves you have planned.

You can cut them off now of wait until after you have sheathed the roof. I think it is easier to cut them plumb before sheathing so I would trim them first. Next, start at the bottom corner of one slanted face of the roof and nail a 4'x8' sheet of OSB to the trusses underneath. Be sure to have the OSB with the textured and lined side up so you don't slide off the roof and so you can see where to nail. When positioning this first piece of sheathing, you will want to overhang the gable end as pictured.

Once you get the whole roof sheathed you can trim this to the desired overhang. When sheathing, the seams between panels must meet on top of a roof truss, so you may have lots of overhang. It may be helpful to cut some OSB sheets in half to limit the overhang since you must also stagger the seams in the panels as pictured. Nail into the truss every " or so using the 8D nails by hand or with the nailer.

When you start on the second row of OSB panels, stagger the seams like in brickwork and install H-clips between the abutting panels between the trusses.

See the sketch for details. The purpose of the H-clips is to provide flexural strength by tying the panels together where they are not supported by the trusses underneath. Work your way up the roof towards the peak. Once at the peak you will have to trim your OSB panels so they stop at or before the peak.

If you are installing a ridge vent, you should leave about When the roof is completely sheathed this will leave a slit about " wide running along the peak for ventilation. If you are really serious you can stop this slot a foot or so from the gable.

Since I am lazy and was covering the gable ends with trim I ran the slot all the way. Repeat the sheathing process on the other side, removing the 2x4s from the top surface as you go.

You can leave the interior 2x4 bracing or remove it before you sheathe the gables. When both sides of the roof are sheathed you will need to get out your chalk line and snap a line along the slanted edges of the roof and use a circular saw to trim the gable ends of the roof deck to the proper overhang.

I used about 4". This measurement depends on your plan for finishing the gable ends. Since this is a garage you can keep it pretty basic and just nail up a painted 2x4 or 2x6 if desired. The title says it all. Relax and take a load off. Crack open a cool one, you have earned it. Double fisting encouraged. But having come this far, there is no reason to quail at the prospect of falling to an ignominious end while trying to catch a sliding hammer. In the following sketches, the sheathing is not shown on the structure because I was too lazy to draw it, your garage should be sheathed before roofing.

Get to it! A word about roof pitch. Premade trusses and roofs in general are rated by their rise over a fixed distance, usually 12 feet. Let me tell you that unless you are a planning a loft over the garage or are a huge stickler for detail and want your new garage to match the pitch of the existing house, then do yourself a favor and go with a lower pitch. Additionally, local building codes often limit the height of accessory structures and a steeper pitch can push you over the limit so that you will need to secure a variance permit which will require approval by people who don't like to give variances.

This advice would have been helpful during the planning and purchasing phase, but like those tests where the first instruction is to read all the instructions sometimes the devil is in the details. OK, before we begin roofing, you will need to switch your tool belt to the "roofing' configuration pictured below. The key differences are that now you only need roofing nails and staples, you will want to switch blade styles in your utility knife, and it can be helpful to have a cat's paw for removing nails without damaging shingles.

Contrary to the photo, it is helpful to have two utility knives for roofing, one with a standard straight blade for cutting roofing felt and a hook blade for cutting shingles. Another note, I only had a framing nailer for my project and shingled by hand. Hammering the roofing nails by hand is not too bad since the nails have a big head, are shorter, and not that many nails are used.

You may want to track down a roofing nailer however, especially if it is really hot out. Surprisingly, a black felt covered roof is not top on any lists of summertime hang out spots.

With the garage below fully framed and sheathed, the roof sheathed, and the eaves and truss tails trimmed, we can begin on covering the roof. The first step is to get your D-style drip edge and haul it up on the roof.

Use nails every " or so. Cut the metal drip edge to length with a pair of tin snips, which will also come in handy when installing vinyl siding. On the slanted gable ends, be sure that the sloping drip edge overlays the horizontal drip edge so that water does not get channeled under the drip edge and cause rot. Also, if you plan on putting gutters on your garage, then you will want to use a different drip edge style on the lower, horizontal edges.

This is called gutter flashing or fascia or something. You will find it in the same place as the regular drip edge at your local building supply center. After the edging is installed all around, get a broom and sweep the roof to remove any sawdust, nails, or other junk. This helps the ice and water barrier stick to the roof deck, improves traction, and protects the roofing felt from damage. Then you want to unbox your ice and water barrier and install it along the lower edge of the horizontal sides of the roof.

Strictly speaking this ice and water barrier is only really needed if you heat your garage and you live in a cold climate with snow. Heat escaping through the roof melts snow which runs down to the eaves which are cold and refreezes the water. A dam forms and water builds up and can penetrate the roofing material. The membrane seals nail punctures and prevents water infiltration. If you live in a snowy climate this barrier is cheap insurance against water damage so I installed it anyway even though I don't plan on heating the garage.

Peel the protective backing off the barrier as you go. It helps to have two people. You can pop a few staples through along the way to help hold it in place as you press the sticky side down to the roof.

Working this close to the edge may be easier for you from a ladder. You want the ice and water barrier to stick to the drip edge but not completely overlay it.

Repeat the installation on the other side of the roof. It is OK to have a seam in the barrier, overlap cut edges by a foot or so and press the adhesive down firmly.

Take care when installing to avoid air bubbles. Next get the rolls of 15 black roofing felt AKA tar paper and start rolling it out parallel to the ice and water barrier. You should overlap the horizontal seams by a good 6" inches, do not make any vertical seams if at all possible. Cut the roofing felt with a utility knife and make sure that it overlays the drip edge somewhat but doesn't hang all the way out beyond it.

Roofing felt is cheap so don't be shy. It should be noted that all seams in your roof should be made such that the uphill layer is on top of the downhill layer. Use a hammer tacker or stapler to staple the roofing felt to the roof. When tacking the sheets in place, measure to make the roofing felt layers are as horizontal and parallel as possible. If you do so, then the lines printed on the paper can be used for guiding shingle placement.

Continue laying layers of roofing felt up the roof until you reach the peak. Since we are using a ridge vent, we want to trim the felt so that it does not obscure the slot for ventilation. If you have any protrusions in your roof for lavatory vent stacks, chimneys, etc you will have to cut holes in the roofing felt for them as well as do any needed flashing.

I'll let you figure that out, because you should have planned a hole-free roof. Repeat the process on the other side of the roof. With the roof felted, it will withstand some light rain in a pinch but the best plan is to push through the whole roofing project in a single sprint if at all possible.

See the sketches below for clarification on the layers involved in the roofing. Shingling is by far the hardest part of roofing and can be hellish in the heat and sun of summer. Add to that the itchy fiberglass and general abrasive nature of the shingles and you can be suffering like a simonist or sorcerer in the 8th circle of Dante's Inferno. All complaining aside, once you get the hang of it and take care in maintaining a straight line of shingles it is not all that bad.

There is another good reason to avoid shingling in the heat besides comfort. In the hot sun the shingles get soft and can tear when you carry them or walk on them. Also the adhesive on the bottom will begin to bind the shingles together before you have them in place which can be a pain. So shoot for a cloudy day in the mid 70's if you can. I used regular 3-tab shingles for my garage since the matched the house. The process is similar for architectural style shingles. The first step is to stick down your starter strip over the roofing felt and ice barrier.

The starter strip is like a shingle in roll form without tabs and keeps water from the tab cutouts from reaching the roof deck. Roll the starter strip out while peeling the backing and nail it down every foot so near to top edge. The overhang is also important to allow water to drip into gutters if you install them. See the sketch for more info. There are several methods for shingling. The easiest is to snap a line up the sloped roof in the middle, equal distance from the gable ends.

When beginning to shingle, you will start at this centerline and move out towards the edges, staggering the shingles like the OSB panels so that the cuts in the tabs are offset a half tab from the course below.

This allows two people to work out from the center towards each gable. You can also start by cutting a shingle in half leaving 1. This method can result in fewer measured cuts since if you keep everything square you can cut a bunch of shingles in half in advance and only have to measure the far side.

This assumes your roof is square to begin with, so the center method can result in a more even look for the beginner. If you start from a corner, one person can move horizontally while the other builds up and diagonally as the first person's progress allows.

Each shingle may have a different recommended "exposure" or amount of the single below that shows when overlaid correctly by the upper shingle. Whatever the exposure, you can use that number to snap chalk lines across the roof after you have the first course of shingles nailed down. Measure up from the top of the first course this exposure distance and snap a line. Measure from this line another exposure distance and repeat snapping lines until you reach the peak.

If your lines are not parallel to the peak then you have a problem with the squareness of your roof, the lay of your first course, or your line snapping. In any case, you want the shingles to be parallel to the peak at the top so you can cheat the shingles as you go without it being too obvious. If no exposure distance is available from the manufacturer, you can put a nail in the top of the tab cutout of the lower shingle and let the top shingle rest on the nail to get a consistent exposure.

This can lead to wandering rows as the shingles aren't exactly machined to aerospace precision. You should put 4 nails in each whole shingle. Nails should go right above the cutouts that define the tabs, far enough up so that they are not exposed and just below the adhesive tar strip.

You want to put the nails in deep enough so that they don't stick up and tear the overlaying shingle but not too deep that they tear through the underlaying shingle. The nails should go in straight so that the heads don't cut into the shingles. If you mess up, use the cat's paw to pop the nail without damaging the shingle and try again. If the shingle gets damaged, remove it and use a new one. Start shingling as shown in the sketch and work your way out from the corner or from the center. When butting shingles together on the same course, try to space them so that the resultant cutout resembles those on the middle tabs.

When you get to the gable edge, measure and trim a shingle with your utility knife, using your speed square as a guide. Cut from the backside and use a scrap shingle as a cutting pad. If your cut shingle ends up with a tiny tab strip you can put another nail in or use roofing cement as needed to hold this piece in place. Be sure that no nails are exposed to the elements as this will provide a route for water to get to the roof deck. As shown in the sketches you can proceed with whole shingles working towards the edges and upwards diagonally until the bottom courses meet the gable ends.

At this point you need to start measuring and cutting shingles. Precision is not all that important, so do your best and don't sweat it. Continue up the roof, while hopefully another crew works on the other side so you meet at the peak in short order.

You may need to Wooden Garage Building Regulations Company trim the top of the last course of shingles so that you cover all the nails on the underlaying course but do not plug up the ridge vent slot. Use the vent as a guide to make sure that you will be covering all the nails with the vent. When it comes to installing the ridge vent, follow the manufacturers instructions. The ridge vent is flexible and it is up to you to flex it over the peak and keep it centered. You will also need long roofing nails for putting the cap shingles over the ridge vent.

To make the cap shingles you cut the tabs off of some extra shingles and use just the tabs. Proceed down the vent until you get to the end. The last cap shingle can be put in place with roofing cement. I don't have any pictures of the shingling process since by that time in the project I was in a pretty big hurry to get the heck off the roof.

With the building sheathed and the roof shingled, you will want to put in the windows and doors to complete the illusion of a completed project. Depending on the manufacture of your chosen doors and windows the installation method may vary slightly.

The overhead door especially will require you to carefully follow the manufacturer's instructions. Windows are more general. With your opening roughed in and the outside sheathed, take the window out of its packaging and Wooden Garage Kits Home Depot Nz check to see if it fits in the opening.

Better late than never! If the window and jambs fit in, make sure that the space of the opening is not so large that the nail holes in the outer flange don't hit the framing. You will need nails through these holes to hold the window in so if the opening is too big, get some 1x4 lumber and shrink the opening by nailing these strips to the jack studs, header, or saddle as needed.

During install, make sure the window is closed and latched so that the frame will remain as square as possible. Before installing the window, cut a length of window wrap asphalt tape that is about 4" wider on each side than the window opening. Peel the backing and stick it to the sheathing outside right below the window so that the lower nailing flange will overlay it.

With that out of the way, run a good bead of exterior window grade silicone caulk around the perimeter of the window flange just inside of the nail holes. Then with a partner, press the window into the opening and center it. Then put a nail in the top right from the outside of the flange into the framing. Use roofing nails for this job because of their large heads.

The inside person should measure the window frame corner to corner, similar to when squaring the building. If the window is not square, the person on the outside can tweak the left side of the frame up or down to square the window. You should also measure the sides of the window frame for plumb and the bottom and top of the window for level. Tweak it around until everything looks good and then put a few more nails around the flange. Remeasure the squareness and plumb and level before fully nailing the flange.

If your windows have a built in jamb, you can use shims from the inside during the leveling process as well to help get the window in position. Since this is a garage, I didn't sweat this too much. Next you need to cut a strip of drip cap to width and nail it on over the window. This is not needed if the window has integrated J-channels. The drip cap should be trimmed so that it is the same width as the window frame so that it doesn't interfere with installing trim or siding later.

With the window nailed in and the drip cap on, cut some more window wrap tape and run pieces up the sides and a strip across the top. The top piece should be last and should overlap the tops of the drip cap and the side strips so any water will not get under them. The side strips should overlap the lower strip so water running down the window wrap tape doesn't get under the lower tape.

If the weather is cold and the window wrap isn't sticking well to the sheathing, you can punch a few staples into it to hold it in place until some hot weather seals it up. Alternatively you can get a heat gun or hair dryer to heat the tape so it seals to the wall. Repeat this process for any other windows. Entry doors are installed in a similar manner, but may have some variation depending on manufacture.

Depending on the door, you may also need to apply construction adhesive or caulk underneath the door threshold or otherwise secure it to the floor or landing.

Sometimes they recommend that you remove a few of the smaller hinge screws and swap them for longer deck or drywall screws that will go through shims and into the framing. Check for squareness and operation of the door. Install a handle and lockset as desired.

Screws should also be driven through the door frame into the building framing and shims on the latching side of the door as well. Cut a strip of drip cap for the top of the door as well, nail it in place and then add window wrap to the sides and finally top if you have some extra around. Otherwise it is overkill.

Your garage is mostly weather tight and structurally complete. Before you can do anything else you need to get another inspection of the rough framing and construction.

This should be the second to last construction inspection that you will need to get. The final inspection will be a quick once over to make sure you have numbers on the structure visible for emergency crews and to verify any corrections that the inspector wants you to make.

Then you are done! Except for the siding. Oh, and the fascia. And the soffits. Not to mention any trim you want to add. And if you want to do any work or have lights you will need to do the electrical installation which requires a completely different permit and series of inspections. After all that you can then insulate and finish the interior.

The good news for me is that you have now built or at least have an idea of how to build a garage from the ground up, which is the limit of my involvement.

Good luck with the rest of it. The electrical is the only real challenge. Keep your eyes peeled for another Instructable detailing the electrical process.

But don't hold your breath. The photos below show the completed project from the front, back, and a show of the interior in all its messy glory. Thanks to all my friends and family who helped throughout the garage project. I could have done it without you, but it would have sucked a lot. And would probably have fallen over on my head. Thanks also to the patient inspectors who answered my questions and put up with our shenanigans. Question 2 years ago. Answer 2 months ago.

I can have them professionaly printed if need be. Question 2 years ago on Introduction. The article was really very helpful. It tells you about each and every step involved in building a garage.

But there are few things to be considered before building a garage. It's been a long 5 weeks of weekends and evenings Thanks for this guide. It has been my Bible for the last 2 months. Reply 4 years ago. Great to hear. Good luck with everything.

Our garage is still going strong, even supporting a 12 panel solar array. Do you know how long a project like this usually takes? My sister and her husband have been wanting to build a garage outside their home for the past few weeks but they are traveling for the summer.

They are trying to decide when would be the best time and how long it would take. I will have to pass these tips on to them though, thank you. The concrete takes a few days to do and then you need to let it cure a bit. Talk to the contractor on that, my guess is a week. For us in MN, the best time to build is in September since it is still warm, one of the driest months, and less bugs.

If you have a slab with block and bolts for your sill plates, all the materials on-hand, a good set of plans, and a capable crew of you could get the walls up, sheathed, windows in and the roof trussed and shingled in a weekend. After that, a day for electrical, a day for doors, and a day or two for siding.

You could have a basic garage like mine done in a week. You only really need a crew for the walls and roof, I did the rest on my own on weekends and it took like 4 weekends or about days of hard work.

Would it be easier to do in the summer? I'm not sure if they have enough time with their jobs and kids to work on it themselves so it might be beneficial to hire someone for help. Although, doing it on the weekends seems like a great option. That way, friends and family can come and help if needed. I want to build a 24x24 garage but do it in two steps. Is it safe to use a 12 foot 2x4 wall with the ridge pole on top of that and install the rafters to just one half.

I plan to build a second 12x24 section next summer. My concern is whether the roof will be strong enough with just one half built. I was planning on a pitch. My roof framework is 2x6 roof joists on 24" centers and the walls are 2x4 on 12" centers. That was very informative and I liked your humor throughout. I have framed a couple small additions to my cabin in the past, using a framing book for guidance. I feel very comfortable building a garage myself now.

My only change to your instructions, will be to use PBR, rather then Miller lite. Thanks for your great instructions. Just wondering if you had checked into metal roofing like I've seen installed on primitive cabins. It seems like it would go on a lot faster, but perhaps I'm wrong. Does rebar just lie there on the gravel or is it elevated to be surrounded by concrete? If lifted, what with? Does rebar have to be tied? Reply 8 years ago on Introduction. Hi The rebar must be elevated enough so the gravel that is contained in the wet concrete will fit under it.

If you've got old concrete blocks, you can break them and use the pieces as supports, but make sure you tie the rebar to these or they'll fall off while pouring concrete! Other items would be used bricks, pieces of concrete. NO organic materials that will decompose should be used! These come individually and in 5' strips, which can be cut to short pieces. Yes, the rebar needs to be tied together. This helps to keep it in place while you're pouring the wet concrete, and it does give strength.

The rule for how much overlap is: 18 x Diameter in inches. Building your own garage is tough. As soon as we got do the garage doors part of it I just let the pros come install it. It was built before I bought the property.

I would like to suggest three things Put your big air compressor as far as possible from work area to lessen noise when compressor is on Make shop floor 2 inches or so higher than driveway so water will not come into shop.

We had a deluge of rain and water came in If shop is a distance from house, consider installing security alarm system with loud siren on building and hard wired small siren inside house. You will not hear alarm on building if it sounds at am, but you will hear small alarm inside house.

It adds a lot of peace-of-mind. By jmengel Follow. More by the author:. With the foundation subcontracting taken care of, the next step is to get a bill of the materials BOM you will need to order and have delivered to do the actual construction of the building.

This can be difficult and daunting but I will fill you in on a little secret. Many building supply stores such as Menards or Home Depot have a handy kiosk that Wooden Garage Yorkshire Zip Code will let you enter in a rough design and will print out a list of all the materials required to build your building and they will even order and deliver it for you. A key decision to make prior to embarking on building the BOM is what framing system you want to use.

For most garage needs 24" is fine and uses less lumber. Check your local codes, as you may not be able to have a 2nd story above the garage with 24" framing. If you plan to have a heated garage and live in a cold part of the country, go 2x6 and insulate. So I took my building sketch to the Menards design center kiosk and answered a series of questions about the building I wanted and viola I had a recommended bill of materials in under 5 minutes.

I would recommend going over this print out manually to add, remove, or substitute items. For example, you may want to use a pneumatic nailer recommended!

Additionally, you may want to add insulation, space your studs to 24", use OSB oriented strand board instead of plywood, or specify a different style of window. The key thing that the print out gives you is an idea of the number of pieces needed, and the parts that you might miss such as drip edge, drip cap, shingle starter strip, etc that you will need. It is also a good idea to add a few extra pieces of lumber such as 2x4's and 2x6's in case you measure once and need to cut twice.

You will also need to be aware of building codes when ordering, although often the print out from the kiosk will take many of these issues into account. For example, the bottom plate on your framing is in contact with concrete and thus must be treated to prevent rot. Also, when sheathing your roof, you need to use H-clips between the trusses on the horizontal seams.

Snow and ice shield membrane may also be required along the lower portions of the roof. These little details can be anticipated if you spend some time reading the building code and chewing the fat with your experienced construction buddies. You can buy a copy of the code from the ICC website click here and while comprehensive it can be tough to digest. You don't need to make all the BOM decisions at once and may need to mix and match suppliers to get the right materials.

For example, in order to match the shingles on my existing house I had to order from a specialty roofing supply house. The key will be to get all the critical parts on the building site at the same time so that you can effectively use your beer-paid volunteers and get to a stable work point i.

Details such as what lights and color siding can wait a bit. Once you have finalized the BOM, place the order and arrange for delivery. This is not an exhaustive list I must have run to the store about a hundred times to get something I forgot , but the major components are there. All dimensional lumber is 2 grade or better. The above will get your garage framed, sheathed, roofed, and the windows and doors on.

It is up to you to make the decisions on finishing touches like siding, accent lights, etc. If possible try and arrange delivery of your building materials after the foundation has been poured and is cured enough to build on. That way you can get your materials delivered right next to or on the slab for convenience.

I had to hand carry each and every piece around to the back, which was a pain. Sometimes an "alley" delivery will cost extra, depending on your job site layout. Talk with the driver and if you can float him a few bucks you may have luck getting your materials dropped wherever you want.

Those guys are magicians with those forklifts. You should consider your tools for completing the job before you begin in order to save time and money. These tools consist of two groups, inanimate tools that you swear at, and animate tools that you swear at. Those animate tools are you, your friends, and family that have agreed to help, so a fine line must be maintained in order to avoid a workers strike.

Before you wade into that huge pile of lumber, make sure you have the inanimate tools needed. Below are photos of a typical construction tool belt designed to hold tools and nails while you work.




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