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I have just built a bike shed Garden Shed 3 X 2 Years that I like to think of as a bike wardrobe! This was a great project and I would like to share it with you in this Instructable.

I realise that you may not want to follow the exact design though there are a few unique ideas within the design that you can easily use or adapt for your own shed project. Particularly look out for the feet , the way the large door opens up and if you want to make a bike shed the slider system.

To undertake a project like this you will require general wood working tools including power tools. I used regulised timber that now is the standard 'sawn' timber available in the UK. Shed roofing mineral felt. Heavy duty gate hinges. Heavy duty gate wheel.

Gate throw bolt. Scaffold poles. Handrail fittings. Tower scaffolding feet. Ruberised bike hook. Throughout the project I made a mini series of videos of the design process and the build that I include through out this Instructable.

I have included two of the videos in this section outlining my design process, prototyping and modelling. The clients desired a shed to store four bicycles , one being quite big and an off-road unicycle! Catch video in the slider section to see the client riding off-road on the unicycle. They wanted the shed to be visually light which is hard to achieve as bikes take a huge amount of space when stored. Otherwise they left the design up to me - perfect- and were happy to go with my ideas.

I wanted to achieve a unique bike shed, something that no one else would have and to explore new ways to store an object that is visually light, though physically takes up a Garden Bike Shed 03 large space. I experimented in stacking the bikes in as small a space as possible and the best results were by hanging them so that they could be jostled together to interlink taking up a much smaller space.

I tested this on a scaffold pole and developed it further to hang them from their wheels on bike hooks. The final design was informed by this process with a small storage 'shed' section and an open area with the roof extending over both.

I came across scaffold pole fittings that are used for handrail applications, it would be easy to make a sliding pole and end pole arrangement to hold up the roof at the open end. The bikes would slide out through a door into the 'open' area where the required one can be selected. This open area would also be a place to work on the bikes and the inside of the door would form a back wall when open with shelving and fold down tables for all the tools and bike bits needed.

I decided to take the aesthetic of the existing standard garden shed that existed on the site as the overall feel of the bike wardrobe. A traditional feel that would fit in with the clients though with a unique twist. Please check out the images above to see the overall dimensions that I worked on, though I would encourage you to work these out based on your own requirements.

The shed had to be built in my garden, dismantled and driven up to the clients garden to be re-assembled. Generally the joints were simple butt joints with exterior screws to fix. The only exception was on the end wall where I made a halving joint at the apex of the roof to add strength to this area.

The ridge timber has to fix into this. The side walls were split in half to make the panels manageable and to be transportable in my van.

The frames were clad with OSB sheeting [nailed]. This is to brace the structure , add solidity and to make a secure shed as an additional layer below the exterior shiplap. The side walls had a foot plate timber that spans the whole width that would be screwed to the split panels to help lock the panels together. The design required that the shed didn't have a floor to allow water on the bikes to drip away to ground. As I knew the shed would sit on an uneven paved area I came up with the idea to use four tower scaffold adjustable feet to act as the sheds fixing to the ground.

These would allow the shed to be easily leveled and to keep the timber off of damp ground. Holes were drilled through the wall plates to accommodate the diameter of the feet threaded poles. I used 50xmm regulised timber though I planned them to remove the rounded corner look of the timber as they would be seen externally and the external look had to be sharp.

To support the lower section of the roof I cut in two purlins [beams that support a roof mid Garden Shed Bike Storage 600 way between the eave and ridge]. Usually these would be vertical in section as the ridge though to make it look light I laid them flat to the roof pitch. This also gave me plenty of timber to fix the scaffolding to and for fixing the roof OSB sheeting. To tie the ridge and purlins together [as rafters would normally do] I mortice and tenoned a flat on timber into the purlins and halved jointed them to the top of the ridge.

OSB sheeting is then cut in. Two 11mm OSB layers were used finally on-site to give a good thickness for stability and nailing the the felt to.

A 'L' shaped cover piece of timber was run up to screw on-site to the edges to give a good edge all around and to allow the felt to drip clear of the roof edge. When the poles and fittings arrived I got over excited, it just feels like Meccano for adults!

I chose to use galvanised steel poles to be weatherproof and strong for the horizontal slider pole. The fittings are designed for scaffold handrail applications.

They are cast metal with nice allen key fixings giving a clean look. The design for the 'wardrobe' has a horizontal slider pole fixed to the back wall inside the storage 'shed'.

The door to the shed is under the roof area taking the shape right up to the ridge, allowing the bikes to slide out. This frame has to be well constructed to allow it to be dismantled and to add rigidity to the structure, remember the shed doesn't have a floor and so twist could be a potential problem. When setting out the timbers I allowed for the external shiplap cladding to butt up to the frame giving a flush finish that would have a capping piece applied on-site.

It had to hinge from the back side to open as a back wall giving easy access to the storage on the inside of the door. Also as I am sure you have already noticed it had to go right up into the roof space to fully close the space off for security. Now a door going up into the roof space cant open as it would foul on the roof! I kind of always knew this would be a problem though hadn't come to a solution.

It took a couple of days of head scratching and sketching to come up with the solution. The horizontals were positioned for the hinges to give the greatest strength to hanging the door.

The frame was checked for squareness before OSB sheeting was glued and nailed fixed. I made up some ply planks to screw over the horizontals giving pockets for tools and bike bits. The middle horizontal was to have some flip down tables for putting tools on and as a working platform. These again use the shuttering ply and were fixed with piano hinge. The bottom of the ply extended below the hinge acting as a restraint against the horizontal timber when in the open position.

I took the opportunity of stencil spaying BIKE onto the middle one to add a moment of suprise when the shed is opened. I drilled out the screw holes and coach bolted all the fixings as I didn't want any drop of the door. I really didn't want to add the additional weight of the triangular top sections to the already heavy door and so decided to hinge them from the door frame on the roof part of the frame.

I was going to have a cord that was pulled and tied to the end scaffold pole to pull these up out of the way I achieved it by threading the cord through the door frame and around a number of pulleys to the inside of the shed.

The cord then tied to the middle back of the door. When the door is opened the triangles slowly hinge up to the inside of the roof and lower into place when closed. I decided to adapt a long gate throw bolt to use as the lock and handle for the shed. To keep the look clean and to keep fixings secure I wanted the hasp to poke through the door from the back of the door. I work with wood though I had a piece of 5mm aluminium sheeting in the workshop which would be perfect for the hasp. I came across on YouTube that you can mill aluminium with a standard woodworking router and HSS cutter bit.

I even made a little Milling Alluminium Instructable on how I achieved it, I have included the video above though please visit the Instructable if you would like further information. I cut a slot in the cladding for the hasps to poke through and fixed the throw bolt to the back of the door. The throw bolt pin was cut to length and secures behind the door frame, making for a very secure lock with a good strong padlock.

These discs are cut with a little jig I made for my small bandsaw though they could easily be cut with a jigsaw. Accuracy is important for all of the discs to match and using jigs allows consistency for all the parts. Slots are cut in the discs as shown in the photos again using a jig and a router.

A 55mm hole is cut in the middle of each disc with a hole cutter, which allows for the 48mm diameter scaffold pole and giving 7mm clearance for the wheels. Threaded rod is fed through the three connecting holes and all the discs are bolted together with some nice flush nuts that I found.

A pilot hole is drilled in the bottom of the slider and a rubberised bike hook is screwed in. I had a spare scaffold fitting and it would be perfect for bolting a bike maintenance clamp to. I cut two pieces of shuttering ply and routered a flat bottomed chamfer groove along the width of both pieces near the leading edge, this would hold the bike frame.

I cut another ply disc , drilled a hole for a M8 bolt and chopped out the shape of the nut in the top. Finger grips were routered around the edge of the disc and all sanded to feel nice.

A slot was routered in the top ply piece allowing the top ply to angle up. A scaffold pole was cut to length and the ply assembly bolted to it.

I made a bracket to store it inside the shed when not in use My van was completely full of the shed and tools to take it all to the clients garden. I had designed the shed to be pre-assembled as a flat pack and so the main structure went up really quickly on the cleared space.

The shed was a little longer than the hard standing and it was decided not to reduce the length which we could have done.

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